We break down the regions of Inner Sydney. The atmosphere, what's there, and links to accommodation that you'd actually want to stay in. We take the guesswork out of planning your visit to Sydney to save you time and stress.
Inner urban Sydney has a Central Business District (CBD) and a series of CBD-fringe suburbs where people live and go out. Town Hall (and its train station) is the central marker of the Sydney CBD, and at the Northern tip of the CBD is Circular Quay, with the famous icons of the Harbour Bridge, Opera House and Sydney Harbour.
Greater Sydney is a huge sprawl that reaches out up to 60 kilometres (37 miles) from the CBD. In most instances we would advise that you stay either in the CBD, one of the city-fringe neighbourhoods, or one of the nearer-beach suburbs like Bondi and Manly. The outer suburbs are exactly that, and while near the outer fringes they become very pretty, few are serviced by quick and regular transport to inner Sydney.
The CBD - amazing Asian food, busy office workers, the historic Rocks neighbourhood, and the harbour. The Central Business District is as central as its name suggests. Most of Sydney’s luxurious hotels are located in the CBD, and it’s a good spot to be based if you want to be in the centre of town, with quick access to public transport, the city icons, and great food. The upper CBD is around Town Hall, and Centrepoint Tower, which is the tall pointy tower you can see on our moving live camera. At the base of this tower is Pitt Street Mall, Sydney’s busiest shopping district. The most beautiful shopping spot in Sydney is the historic Queen Victoria Building (QVB). The excellently-renovated old pub The Clare Hotel near to Central Station and Chinatown, is a good option for those looking for a spot in the Southern end of the CBD.
The significant downside to the CBD is that it is the Central Business District. Other than Chinatown (which is significant in scale) and a few key spots, things are pretty quiet after 8 or 9 pm. The Northern section, near to The Rocks, and Circular Quay, is an exception, with a mix of tourists and locals on the move 7 days a week, as they dine, eat ice cream by the harbour, or head to a show at Sydney Opera House. Circular Quay is also the main junction for Sydney’s ferry boats, which are almost certainly the most beautiful and enjoyable form of public transport around. Looking at our live view, The Rocks is the area surrounding the nearer pylon of the Harbour Bridge, and Circular Quay is the section between the Bridge and the Opera House.
Just down the hill from Town Hall is the newly-revamped Darling Harbour. Designed as a civic space and an area to house big international conferences, it’s connected to great food at Chinatown, has the maritime museum, the aquarium, and routine fireworks. It’s on a piece of harbour with a ferry service that departs a 10 minute (flat) walk away at the newly developed luxury precinct of Barangaroo. Whale-watching tours also take off from this spot. With more open space, play-zones, and flat terrain, Darling Harbour could be a good spot for young families to base their stay.
The Inner East - East Sydney, Darlinghurst, Woolloomooloo, Potts Point / Kings Cross, and Surry Hills. Formerly known for its party atmosphere, heroin use, and strip clubs, this region is now better known for Poodles, artisan coffee, exclusive restaurants, and high-end fromageries. The old days are over. The area is really quite nice - it has lots of trees and cafes and is only a brief (10-20 minute) walk into the CBD. Potts Point is our favourite of the East, due to the more concentrated main street that makes finding a good croissant, a fancy pasta, or groceries easier and quicker than in its nearby rival locations. Though all of the Inner East is pretty easy and nice to be in. The East is very leafy, spots like Woolloomooloo are on the harbour, and getting to the beach is little effort from here. It's probably the best spot for those who want immediate access to the city and the harbour, whilst feeling immersed in a neighbourhood where Sydneysiders actually live and meet. There's numerous small bars, and getting a drink is no problem whatsoever. You can see some relics of former nightlife around Kings Cross and Darlinghurst's Taylor Square, but largely that party atmosphere has all gone West…
Newtown, Enmore, Marrickville. The old and new kids on the block. Newtown and Enmore, long the lands of lentils and dreadlocks, have become the party epicentre for the young travelling in from the suburbs on the weekend. Newtown also has great cafes, and a nice inner-suburban feel. It’s a mix of rock-dads and the unleashing of newly-pent-up-energy. Go here if you are young and want to party on Friday and Saturday night, or if you like a slightly alternative (keep in mind the houses are $2m) neighbourhood feel. At the further end of the suburb a renovated pub offers cheaper accommodation than you'll typically find closer to the CBD - though planes, trains and automobiles are nearby.
Marrickville is one of the fastest changing parts of Sydney, where old factories are becoming breweries, and then old breweries are becoming indoor climbing gyms, all still amongst fully operational factories and mechanics-galore. This is one of the last spots that artists can occasionally afford to rent an old warehouse to get some work done. There’s plenty of new cafes, eateries, and nightspots turning up here, some of them quite good indeed. Marrickville is spread-out, and very affected by noise from planes that come right overhead, and the still-functioning factories. Keeping the theme of this area, another nicely renovated pub, The General Gordon, offers accommodation opposite Sydenham train station, which is a major interchange station for the area, and walking distance to most of Marrickville's attractions.
Glebe has long been a hub for students at The University of Sydney (USYD) and the University of Technology Sydney (UTS) a kilometre North, near Central Station. There are decent but not-too-fancy eateries that cater to a mix of student and more well-off residents who live further from Broadway, up towards the Western end of Glebe Point Road. Glebe has some great views looking North towards the Anzac Bridge. Annandale, Stanmore, and Camperdown house banker-rock-dads and young professionals, living alone or in groups. There’s some fun breweries and cafes. This is the gateway to the West, it’s not a touristy area, and mostly in this neighbourhood you can get into the city on a bus or train in about 10-15 minutes. Beyond these neighbourhoods are Lewisham, Petersham, Dulwich Hill and Summer Hill, which are all nice and have a similar feel, but as a visitor they start to become a little further from Sydney’s attractions.
Rozelle is a formerly working class neighbourhood, linked to the now-defunct White Bay Power Station. Balmain, on the other hand, feels like it’s always been well-to-do, even if the houses are a bit squishy. In a city surrounded by water, there are numerous ‘insular peninsulas’, and Balmain is one of them. We can’t recall the last time we went there, and most of the residents there probably can’t recall the last time they came into the city, despite staring directly at it. The Eastern tip of Balmain connects to the city by ferry, and the main street has excellent restaurants, and an ‘old money’ feel. It also has a ‘ye olde’ feel with an abundant use of sandstone in the old churches and pubs. It’s really actually a very nice spot to be, but you might not get out and about if you stay here.
Pros - very close to the rest of Inner Sydney, via a quick train or ferry ride over/under the Harbour Bridge. It’s the cluster of buildings at the furthest end of the Sydney Harbour Bridge in our live view. Cons - a ghost town after 6pm. North Sydney is really a commercial centre that is active during the day, but not at night. By contrast Crows Nest, which is just up the hill, is a thriving food spot. Nearby Kirribilli is a sliver more lively with a small set of restaurants, pubs, and cafes, in an idyllic harbourside setting with Harbour Bridge and Opera House views.
Bondi is about 25-35 minutes on a bus (333 / 380 / 389) from the city. It’s probably Sydney’s most famous beach, and as far as beaches go, it sure is functional. The North end is typically calmer and good for kids and adults alike to take a dip. It’s also a very good spot to try to learn to surf. Only soft foam boards are allowed up this end and that’s good because there’s absolutely nothing worse (more dangerous) than beginner surfers on fibreglass surfboards. The Mid to South end of Bondi can get semi-decent surf, and occasionally good surf. Nearby Tamarama and Bronte can also get decent surf, but are only suitable for advanced/experienced surfers.
The population is a mix of beach-and-yoga-loving long-term Australians, and Europeans and South Americans who are here for a couple of years, or gradually becoming long-term beach-and-yoga-loving Australians. It’s a busy area day and night, particularly later in the week. There’s good food, and a lot of people showing off their bodies. The folk here don’t travel out of Bondi, other than to go to Byron Bay, so it’s a fully contained area with bars and good restaurants. If we were staying in Bondi, we’d pitch up right in the middle, opposite the beach.
The Coastal Walk which takes in Tamarama, Bronte, Clovelly, and Coogee is very pretty, but it’s worth noting that these areas are almost purely residential, other than Coogee, which is a bit active, but not very thrilling, and really just a place on the way to the Randwick Ritz Cinema. Notes: wear sunscreen and a hat, avoid midday; for a swim we recommend between the flags at North Bondi, and the pool-like Clovelly.
Manly is beautiful. There’s no getting around it. It’s a headland peninsula with the harbour on one side and the open ocean on the other. A ferry from the city is about 30 or 40 minutes, very scenic, and quite enjoyable. The only downside to the ferry is that sometimes it fills up, and you have to wait for the next one. Manly is the first and most accessible of the ‘Northern Beaches’. Staying in Manly is a great idea, but we wouldn’t suggest the rest of the Northern Beaches simply because it becomes difficult to access the rest of Sydney using public transport. Palm Beach and Pittwater might be the exception for those seeking a getaway - because that area is shockingly beautiful.
Manly beach is sheltered from the Southerly winds that accompany Sydney’s more intense and routine storms. Thanks to that shelter and the provision of a National Park on North Head, Manly (particularly around Fairy Bower and Shelly Beach) has denser and more abundant foliage than South-facing Bondi, as well as Quolls, Brush Turkeys, and even the odd Echidna. The population make-up is very similar to Bondi, a mix of local and international, but all toned and shirtless. ‘The Corso’ is a pedestrian thoroughfare between the harbour ferry terminal, and the open surf beach, where you'll find food and shopping.
At Manly beach the South Corner is slightly protected and typically best for swimmers. Shelly Beach is free of waves and good for snorkelling. Manly produces decent waves on the right (NE) swells, under West to South-West winds, and even somewhat under Southerly winds. We’d want a spot right on the beach or in amongst the plentiful ice cream shops and good restaurants, a little more towards the harbour. We’d also be pretty pleased to stay at the old quarantine station - which gives the experience of staying in the wilderness while in the middle of Sydney.
The suburbs you’d want to live in but can’t afford. The Rich East starts around Paddington and heads out to Vaucluse and Watsons Bay. Paddington feels like people are trying to prove they have good jobs, with lots of extremely white terraces and Range Rovers. From Woollahra on, people are in comfortable old sweaters, paint their houses as they like, and couldn’t care less what you think of them. The mansions are mostly in Bellevue Hill, Vaucluse, Point Piper, and Watsons Bay. These are the richest parts of Australia and their key merits are proximity to the harbour, and an abundance of big old trees, quietness, and clean air. Places to stay are few in this area, but we really recommend catching the ferries that travel to Watsons Bay from Circular Quay. You can even link across on a bus straight to Bondi Beach from here.
You can stay in luxury accommodation at Sydney’s Taronga Zoo, located in a geographically stunning spot on a headland in the centre of the harbour at Mosman. It would be pretty cool to wake up amongst the koalas, and then hop a 15 minute ferry to the CBD.
You can now swim in Sydney Harbour - okay so there are many parts of the Harbour you can swim in but this new spot is right in the thick of it. Technically it’s at Barangaroo, but actually behind Millers Point and The Rocks, near Walsh Bay.
There’s a very fancy seal who has taken up residence on the VIP water access stairs at the back of the Sydney Opera House. Because Australian and New Zealand Fur Seals are protected species this has become his own fenced-off territory and the VIPs have to find another way in. He’s not always there, but you can have a peek and see if he is.
From May, the waters just outside Sydney Harbour become a whale superhighway for whales migrating between Antarctica and the warmer North. You can jump on a boat relatively cheaply and spend a half day watching the giants of the ocean breaching and cruising along. *note breaching not guaranteed.
Welcome to Sydney. All you really need to pack is a healthy bank account and a hat. There’s not much you can’t access easily in Sydney.
First things first: yes, our tap water is absolutely clean, drinkable, and delicious. We see an odd number of tourists struggling through the city with bulk packs of water bottles, wasting money, energy, and plastic. Don’t do this. Just drink from the tap, and enjoy some of the best water in the world.
Sydney’s water supply is fed by a massive dam to the West, which is surrounded by pristine and secured forests. Rainwater filters through this sandstone-floored forest before reaching the dam, getting treated, and sent around the city. You’re probably more likely to get sick from bottled water in Sydney. A percentage of the tap water also comes from a massive desalination plant in Cronulla that was built during a drought. If you happen to be in an old building with old pipes, the water might taste better through a Brita filter or similar, but the source water is no issue.
Walking is easy in Sydney. The climate is good, though it rains often and heavily, and you need to wear a daily-sunscreen, even in winter. The footpaths (sidewalks) are plentiful and mostly very accessible for people who use wheelchairs.
Public transport for inner Sydney is good - not up there with Paris and New York but on par with most international cities. There’s a mixture of trains above and below ground, ferries (boats), very many buses, and more recently a tram that travels the spine of Sydney’s CBD, George Street.
Sydney’s trains were all assigned numbers and coloured lines a few years back via some kind of design-thinking-brainstorm, and are now much harder to navigate than they once were, but Google Maps and the local app Tripview will get you to the right spot in no time. If you ask a local “Where is Blue line T4” they will have no idea how to help you, but if you ask using place names like “How do I get to Kings Cross?” they’ll have no trouble telling you “Platform 25 at Central, or platform 5 at Town Hall”... or “That way.” accompanied by some pointing.
Town Hall is the main interchange station to easily swap between city trains, and Central Station at the Southern end of the CBD is the huge interchange station where intercity, and regional trains depart and arrive. Keep in mind that Sydney does not have a proper metro system, and the underground trains are big suburban trains passing or looping through the city.
The buses are even more confusing than the trains because there are no comprehensive bus maps to be found anywhere in Sydney, and no way at all to know what route they follow unless you’ve taken them before. Again modern technology or the helpful locals are your friends when trying to get a bus. Buses are the dominant form of transport in inner Sydney. Here are some quick rules: the 420’s (eg 427/428) go to Newtown, turning off Broadway near Glebe; the 430’s go into Glebe or past it to Camperdown and beyond; 333, 380, and 389 (meandering version) go to Bondi Beach.
Sydney Ferries. Yes, ferries (boats) are an ordinary state-government-run form of public transport in Sydney. Slightly more expensive than trains and buses, but vastly more beautiful, they provide a great way for visitors to see the beauty of Sydney Harbour for only a few dollars. Most ferries leave from Circular Quay, and stop at spots all over the harbour.
You really don’t need to drive as a visitor to inner Sydney. In fact it’s more likely to cause stress than create freedom. Walking, public transport, taxis and all the usual taxi-like apps are available and functional. Once you want to leave inner Sydney, it’s a different story. There are cheap and comfortable trains that go to the major regional centres and cities around Sydney. Eg. Newcastle, The Blue Mountains, and Wollongong, but for most other places you’ll need a car.
Important to note is that we drive on the left, pedestrians have right of way over vehicles turning at intersections, you absolutely must stop for pedestrians at zebra crossings, the rules are obeyed very rigidly, and you must not queue across intersections. Most traffic lights have speed, red light, and now phone-use cameras. CBD and beach parking is very expensive.
If we were to rent a car and we had less luggage/people we’d probably get a Toyota Corolla Hybrid 5 door hatch - they are excellent and easy to drive cars but don’t have great luggage capacity. We’d probably get the Uber Driver’s favourite Toyota Camry Hybrid if we had more people and luggage. Of course you could always get a nice Mercedes and live it up if you plan to go highway tripping.
*Note - some links included in this guide are affiliate links and we may receive a small commission should you make bookings via following them. That said, we are only sending you to places and areas that we personally would stay, and booking via these links costs you no more.
Sydney Live Camera operates largely on the land of the Gadigal People within the Eora Nation - the traditional placename for Greater Sydney, NSW, Australia. We acknowledge the traditional owners of this unceded land.